Perms: A Comprehensive Guide


If you're feeling uninspired by your straight locks and craving a bold transformation, consider giving a perm a try. Despite its previous association with the over-styled hair of the '80s, the perm has undergone a modern resurgence and is now one of the hottest hair trends of 2023/2024. While the fundamental technology behind the perm remains largely unchanged since its heyday, advancements have been made to minimize damage from both the chemicals and heat required to achieve curls.

Today's perms offer a range of options beyond the traditional tight spirals and ringlets. You can opt for subtle waves and texture or go for a more dramatic curl. Whether you're aiming for a complete hair makeover or just a touch of added volume and movement, a perm could be the perfect solution.

If you're considering a perm, you've come to the right place. Ahead, we'll provide you with all the information you need to know about permed hair, including the latest techniques and trends.
What is a perm?:

A perm, short for permanent wave, is a chemical hair treatment that alters the structure of the hair to create curls or waves that last for an extended period. During a perm, the hair is wrapped around rods of various sizes, depending on the desired curl pattern, and then treated with a chemical solution to break and reform the disulfide bonds within the hair shaft.

This process allows the hair to take on a new shape when set and styled. After the chemical treatment, the hair is rinsed, neutralized, and styled to reveal the desired curls or waves. Perms can vary in intensity, ranging from tight curls to loose waves, and the results typically last several months before gradually fading.

Perms and Colouring:

If you're considering both a perm and hair coloring, it's essential to understand how these processes can interact with each other. While perming highlighted hair is often not recommended due to the risk of damage, there are considerations for those who opt for single-process color treatments, particularly semi or semi-permanent options.

When visiting a stylist for any chemical service, including perms or coloring, it's crucial to consider your hair's history over the past several years. For instance, even if you currently have one color, past treatments like platinum coloring from two years ago could still affect your hair's condition.

If your color history allows for both a perm and coloring, it's generally recommended to wait 2-3 weeks before or after getting a perm to color your hair. This timing helps minimize the risk of the perm causing your color to fade. Additionally, applying a pigmented shine treatment after a perm can help replenish lost hydration and leave your curls shiny and hydrated.

Ultimately, consulting with your stylist and considering your hair's history are essential steps in determining whether you can proceed with both a perm and hair coloring, and in what order to do so.

Can Perms Damage Your Hair?:

The chemicals used in perms can weaken the hair and lead to breakage if the process is not carried out properly. It's essential to consult a professional hairstylist to ensure that the perm is administered correctly and safely.

Chemical treatments, such as perms and coloring, work by altering the hair's cortex (inner layer) to change its curl pattern or color pigment. However, these treatments also disrupt the cuticle (outer layer) of the hair, which not only affects its appearance but also impacts its overall health. This disruption can result in dull and damaged hair.

Therefore, it's crucial to close the hair cuticle tightly after undergoing these treatments. Using a high-quality conditioner, such as Iles Formula, is essential after any chemical treatment. This conditioner helps to quickly seal the cuticles without leaving any residue behind, promoting healthier and shinier hair.

Understanding Perm Maintenance:
To maintain your perm and keep your curls looking their best, consider the following do's and don'ts:

Do's:

  1. Wait before washing your hair: Wait at least 48 hours after perming your hair before washing it. Avoid getting your perm wet, putting it up, or touching it excessively while the chemicals set your strands. Additionally, minimize the frequency of washing your hair to prolong the longevity of your curls.

  2. Use the right shampoo and conditioner: Opt for moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to combat frizz and dryness caused by perming. Wash your hair twice-weekly with a moisturizing shampoo and follow up with a deep conditioner to maintain its health and hydration.

  3. Embrace air drying: Avoid heat styling tools as much as possible, as they can further dry out your hair. Instead, embrace air drying or use a diffuser attachment when blow-drying to minimize heat damage and preserve your curls.

  4. Sleep with your hair protected: Protect your permed hair while sleeping by using a satin pillowcase to reduce friction. Tie your hair up in a loose bun or use the plop method, which involves wrapping your hair in a microfiber towel to keep it secure while you sleep.

Don'ts:

  1. Brush wet hair: Wet hair is fragile and prone to breakage, especially after perming. Avoid brushing your hair when it's wet to prevent damage. Instead, use a detangling spray, leave-in conditioner, or oil to gently detangle your curls.

  2. Overuse heat styling tools: Excessive heat styling can exacerbate dryness and damage to permed hair. If you must use heat styling tools, apply a heat protectant spray beforehand to minimize damage.

How long does a perm last?":
A perm, despite its name suggesting permanence, can have varying lifespans. Typically, a perm lasts between three to six months. However, several factors influence its duration, including the type of perm, your hair type, and how well you maintain it.

For a traditional perm, which creates a uniform curl pattern, expect it to last around 3-6 months. This duration depends on factors such as your hair growth rate and maintenance routine. Similarly, a spiral perm, which differs only in the variety of curl sizes or lengths, typically lasts within the same timeframe.

Several factors can influence the longevity of a perm:

  1. Stylist expertise: The skill and experience of your hairstylist play a crucial role in the success and longevity of your perm. It's essential to choose a stylist who is knowledgeable about perm techniques and uses quality products.

  2. Chemical processing: The condition of your hair, particularly its history of chemical treatments, can affect how well it holds a perm. Overly bleached or heavily processed hair may struggle to maintain the new structure created by the perm.

  3. Lifestyle and environmental factors: Activities such as swimming, frequent shampooing, or exposure to wet weather can compromise the longevity of your perm. Water exposure opens the hair cuticle, releasing the chemicals used to set the perm.

  4. Quality of perm products: The quality of the products used during the perm process and in subsequent hair care routines can impact the health and longevity of your perm. Opt for high-quality, moisturizing products specifically designed for permed hair to maintain its condition and appearance.

Can I make it last longer?:

To prolong the lifespan of your perm, consider these tips:

  1. Get regular haircuts: Trimming your hair every 3-4 months helps maintain the shape of your curls as they may become less defined as your hair grows.

  2. Wash your hair less: Over-washing strips your hair of natural oils, leading to dryness. Reduce the frequency of washing to maintain moisture levels and prevent frizz.

  3. Invest in protein treatments: Perming chemicals can weaken your hair's protein bonds. Strengthen your hair with regular protein treatments to mitigate damage and maintain hair health.

  4. Change your brush: Avoid brushing your perm, as it can disrupt the curls. Instead, use a wooden wide-tooth comb to gently detangle damp hair and a soft paddle brush for dry hair.

  5. Avoid chemical treatments: Refrain from applying additional chemical treatments to your hair for at least a month after getting a perm to prevent further damage and maintain the integrity of your curls.


    These are the most frequently asked questions people often have before getting a perm:

  1. Does getting a perm hurt your hair? A perm isn’t as damaging as bleaching, but it can weaken and dry out your hair. If your hair is already damaged, it may become brittle or prone to breakage after a perm.

  2. Does your hair type or texture matter? Perms can work on most hair types and textures. Thicker, slightly wavy hair tends to respond better to the process, while thin or stick-straight hair may require longer processing times at the salon.

  3. Does your hair length matter? The length of your hair can impact the perm process. Longer hair may require more time and effort to ensure even application of chemicals and rods for a uniform look. Additionally, layers, especially shorter ones, can present challenges during the perm process.


    In essence, a hair perm is most effective on virgin hair. If your hair has been bleached, chemically straightened, or color-treated, it's not advisable to get a perm as it can cause additional damage to your strands. It's worth noting that perms typically yield the best results on stick-straight, thick hair, but individuals with curls, natural hair, and fine hair can still achieve great results with the right technique.

    If you're eager to get a perm, consider booking an appointment with a Davines hair stylist in your area. It's crucial to maintain your perm with a consistent at-home hair care routine. Follow our tips and use high-quality hair products. Davines formulas are crafted with natural ingredients, free of harmful toxins, and produced using renewable energy. Our packaging is designed to minimize environmental impact, making our hair care not only beneficial for your hair but also for the planet.

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